Popdiatribe: After Taxes

By law of averages, someone we interact with today wears footwear manufactured at a Yue Yuen Industrial production facility- most likely in China. Yue Yuen is the world’s biggest branded shoe and sneaker maker- think 3 stripes and the swoosh. For the past week, thousands of workers at a couple Chinese Yue Yuen factories have been in various stages of a strike; the biggest being estimated at 30,000 at a Y.Y. in Guangdong province. The issue seems on its way to being resolved in favor of the workers’ concerns. Meanwhile, Nike and Adidas look towards Vietnam as the place where a majority of their shoes will be made as wages and working conditions (hopefully) improve in China.

The guy who won the Boston Marathon wasn’t wearing Nikes, Adidas, New Balances, Under Armours, Newtons, or Altras while crossing the finish line. Wicked fast runner Meb Keflezighi has been sponsored by Skechers since 2011, and was wearing a pair from the company’s performance line of sneaks when he broke the tape on Boylston Street Monday. Next year I’d love to see him do a repeat while wearing a pair of Skechers’s infamous Shape Ups shoes.

TMZ is reporting that Chicago Bull Joakim Noah sued his former sneaker sponsor Le Coq Sportif last year. Le Coq countersued. The issue was settled last month. Noah now balls with Adidas. Today he was named the 2014 NBA defensive player of the year.

Pop boy act One Direction now have their own sneaker-shoes. Country singer Miranda Lambert debuted her own line of footwear. Brown Shoe Co. (act like you never had some Buster Browns) just celebrated 100 years on the New York Stock Exchange. Brown even had a little celebration at the NYSE building where Black Eyed Pea Fergie (has her own line with Brown) rang the closing bell Wednesday. Former prez George H.W. Bush has his own line of striped, colorful signature socks. What ? Check out GeorgeBushSocks.com

Those Bush socks are a little too loud for my tastes. In efforts to step up my sock game though- I did visit the REI store in SOHO last week and spent an inordinate amount of time in their impressively-stocked sock isles. I walked out with a purchase of Injinji toe socks- my first ever purchase of this type of sock. Look for a quick review in a future Popdiatribe.

Speaking of commanders-in-chief, the U.S. Armed forces are in the process of testing some new boot models. Last month I wrote about the Berry Amendment – that mandates the U.S. Department of Defense must give preference to domestically-produced items. For footwear this means that government-issued soldier boots must be made in America. A push to be Berry-compliant has created a little healthy competition amongst American manufacturers. Who can make the most comfortable, durable, quickest-drying boot that service members will love? Time shall tell. I’m not even sure at this time which brand produced the model below. The results of all these prototypes will certainly lead to civilian consumers getting some fresh boot options down the road.

Image from Army.mil
Image from Army.mil
ha ha
I couldn’t resist posting another still from that Dr. Scholl’s DreamWalk ad campaign. The special effects people did a great job making the womens’ shoes morph into monsters.

 

Popdiatribe: Why Suffer?

Though shiny thong sandals were on Alison Ernst’s feet, it was an orange and black athletic shoe that she chose to pull from her purse and throw at Hillary Rodham Clinton last Thursday during some industry convention speech in Las Vegas. If the flying shoe was an Asics, Adidas, New Balance, NIke or Puma, it could have been made at a Yue Yuen Industrial factory in China, Vietnam or Indonesia. Those wondering how a seemingly infinite stream of new styles from the world’s biggest brands appear on shelves with such rapidity- consider Yue Yuen a manufacturing power pitcher- employing over 400,000 workers to meet brands’ needs, and faraway demands of sneaker super-consumers camped in long lines outside stores on new-release eves.

Image from http://instagram.com/dwxasn619
Image from
http://instagram.com/dwxasn619

Law enforcement meets workers. On the other side of the world they meet buyers.

Monday, at a Yue Yuen production facility in China’s Guangdong province, a number of thousand workers organized a strike. Issues pertaining to pay, social security, and other workplace concerns landed on the negotiating table. Read what U.S. based not-for-profit organization China Labor Watch announced about the situation. One wonders what a Yue Yuen worker might think if they’d seen coverage of a Supreme Nike Air Foamposite release in New York City a couple weeks ago that was shut down due to safety concerns (crazy line).  Whether supplying in Guangdong or demanding on Lafayette Street, I’m confident things will proceed in a peaceful, fair direction. There’s never been a better time to be cognizant of the true purpose of footwear- the truth of what you’re buying and making. What does it mean to you? Does your relationship to a certain brand come from deep within? More likely, it’s a certain style you like. Let your sensibilities guide you.

Less more much?  LIke what you like. Explore best versions of styles you gravitate toward.

A liar is someone who claims they never searched for the perfect shoe. Why pay attention to the craft of your footwear the way you pay attention to your health? They are you. That nicely boxed product could be an investment, not disposable socks with tread stuck on them to be Ebayed or Craigslisted- rather like property or hairstyles that flux with you. Popdiatry imagines footwear as an almost extra skin. Like horse’s hooves, they become your exo-layer on this giant treadstone Earth, providing shelter for two vessels requiring air, water and sun. Think of our ancestors walking long before the days of branding. What would they think of Old Navy two dollar flip-flop sales ? Would they think we’re brilliant eagles for selling a pair of foam-molded vessels on an electronic-bidding site?

It may help dodging flying shoes if you avoided wearing high-heels like the ones pictured in the coming-soon image for “Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe “- an exhibit exploring chopines, stilettos and life showing this September at Brooklyn Museum (curated by Lisa Small). Killer like killer app, not killer like the Texas woman who was convicted last week of killing her boyfriend using a high-heeled shoe for a tomahawk. Apparently, certain types of high-heels contain a mysterious power that raises wearers’ superego- if not center of gravity- while increasing the risks of injuring the ankle and/or developing knee osteoarthritis. The taste for danger explains a little. From what I hear these babies are often uncomfortable, and unsupportive to the point you’ll see gals barefooting through public parks carrying rather than sporting. Even Dr. Scholl’s compares them to evil monsters in their new Dreamwalk insoles for women advertisements.

DrSchollsDreamwalkAd

Dear Dr. Scholl, I would like a prescription for one Dreamwalk promotional USB stick to give to my aunt for Christmas.

Image from http://instagram.com/evcurlgurl
Image from http://instagram.com/evcurlgurl

 What do I like? What you like. There is no right shoe.

In a continuing effort to foster understanding about why humans wear mega-heels for prolonged periods, I look forward to watching some of the short films that will be presented along side the objects at the Brooklyn exhibit. Hopefully no one will be buzzed by a flying platform shoe, or threatened by that Louboutin Printz; wearing some protective gear couldn’t hurt- maybe some boots with wings would emit mercurial yin for the high-heeled yang, and enable flights to neverland- a world where everyone has a few really great pairs of shoes and the people who made them are happy.

Spotted at Brandhunters "Night of Fashion" - Curtis and his tricked out boots
Spotted at Brandhunters “Night of Fashion” – Curtis and his tricked out boots

Hopefully you are happy with your footwear. Why suffer for or of it?

Pics From American Converse All Star Factory in the 90s

“How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993, Simon and Schuster Books for Young Readers), is a picture book that takes readers through the creation of sneakers- specifically the Converse All Star– at a former Converse factory in Lumberton, North Carolina!

HowAreSneakersMadeCOverI remember around the turn of the century when I heard that Converse would no longer be producing their All Star shoes in the USA. The company had been rescued from a brush with bankruptcy and would soon be purchased by Nike. I picked up a couple pairs of the all black high tops and kept them in my bullpen.

ConverseFactorySoleAttaching
A worker machine presses soles ro uppers at the old Converse factory in North Carolina. Scanned from the book “How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993 Simon and Schuster)

I thought All Stars were good for BMX freestyle bicycling. Their lack of girth around the foot and archless flat rubber soles made dancing on the pedals, tires and stunt-pegs more natural, as opposed to bulkier basketball-type sneaks.

GluingToecapsOntoAllStars
A worker dips an All Star toe in adhesive for toe-cap attachment.at the old Converse factory in North Carolina. Scanned from the book “How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993 Simon and Schuster)

When I became more of a mountain-biker in the 00s,  All Stars remained on the roster. Whenever I tried to walk far wearing them, the tongues would always slide to the outer side of my foot- even when wearing proper socks. I started to get into footwear with more developed leather uppers and advanced footbeds.

AttachingEyeletsToAllStars
A worker pokes metal eyelet washers into an All Star at the old Converse factory in North Carolina. Scanned from the book “How Are Sneakers Made?” by Henry Horenstein (1993 Simon and Schuster)

My last pair of Made-in-the-USA All Stars “died” a couple years ago. I cut them apart in reverse to see how they were constructed (before Michael from Allston Massachusetts gifted Popdiatry with this excellent book).

Converse_Allstar_toecaps
All that remains of my last All Stars

If I desire the All Star body again, I would probably go with some Etiko clones. Etiko, not to be confused with Ekito, is a post-millennial shoe and clothing company that pays  special attention to fairtrade issues, and goes for eco-friendly manufacturing practices. Since I walk a lot these days, the flat arch design of this type of shoe is not optimal; but for certain activities like bike riding, weight training, or just lamping, the classic no-frill design of a “Chuck” may be just what the podiatrist ordered.