Category Archives: History

Off the Shelf: Authentic by Paul Van Doren

” After twenty years, I had learned every aspect of the sneaker business. I could make them in my sleep and suggested starting a small sneaker factory in Southern California.”

This memoir by the founder of Vans is my bittersweet summer memory for 2021 and forever on. Mostly sweet. Premillennial Vans-heads will find Authentic extra nice because it covers just about every event along the company’s timeline from the days of being a Californian specialty to the gigantic global present. Sadly, Paul’s Van Doren’s death in May left an indelible legacy in the American shoe story, and as these chapters tell, an irreplaceable family presence of which the history of Vans includes the many dedicated members of—Paul’s sisters and brothers who helped make the operation possible in the analog days. Motivational as well as informational—anyone who’s ever enjoyed their shoes, or daydreams about canvas tongues and metal eyelets—would find this a great gift. From Braintree Massachusetts to southern California, thoughts on unions, efficient systems, some sad parts but lots of happy ones, a horse race or two—It’s all here. And There’s a picture gallery! For just under 300 pages you get to hang out with the man who started something huge. I was positively obsessed with Sk8 His and Old Skools in the 1990s and couldn’t put this down. The original California Vans hand-vulcanized with the super-sticky rubber soles are a special step in the evolution of an enduring style and we couldn’t think of a radder way to honor Van Doren than having had the pleasure to read Authentic.

What is Kid Leather?

The gnarly name kidskin or kid leather refers to leather made from goat or lamb skin— sometimes even kangaroo. It was never a particular brand of leather and we suspect its meaning was adapted at times by advertisers and copywriters to mean any hide that was soft and pliable.  

Dr. Scholl’s ad from Boston Globe August 7th, 1961

Kid leather has a history in bags, gloves, bookbinding, and of course shoemaking.

Jordan Marsh ad, Boston Globe May 16th, 1963

Check out more classic shoe ads from my post yesterday on the Apollo anniversary.

Wide Wide World of Shoes 50 Years Ago

I had the pleasure of slicing through some historical records (old newspapers— mostly Boston Globes) pertaining to major historical events in US history, including the exciting sequence leading up to Neil Armstrong’s walk on Earth’s moon fifty years ago today. Reading about the astronauts’ ITMG boots equipped with utility pockets layered under a lunar overshoe was of course fascinating, but for us it’s all about the ads. What was on the shelves back then?

The Jordan Marsh Company Great Basement Store advertises women’s shoes in multiple widths

Consumers could get a better fit in ’69. Look— just look at the widths offered by popular retailers of the time. For perspective; the average off-the-shelf women’s width is a “B”. For guys it’s “D”.

Jordan Marsh newspaper ads from the 1960s

“Otter Smooth Leather”, “styles in all wanted heel heights”. “fabulous assortment of evening and cruise shoes”.. the copy on these are pure gold. Solby Bayes was even advertising AAAAAAs (that had to have been a joke). In reality these products were filling a need that modern footwear has dumbed down and ignored. As you can see, it was not uncommon for women to to have a wider foot than “B”.

“Bone punched calf” at Solby Bayes and Coward’s Nylon Mesh “Gadabout”

This one is so excellent it may be worth framing (Globe, May 16th 1963)

“American Girl”


Popdiatry readers know that “A” is the thinnest, “E” is the widest and that multiple letters denote even thinner or wider. So AA is thinner than A, AAA is thinner than AA, EEEE is about the widest you’ll ever see. In 2019 it’s very uncommon to see “C” or multiple “A”s and many companies have done away with the antiquated letter system in favor of “M” or “W” but if you pride yourself on being super-scientific, knowing your Brannock width is the first key to the game.

Dorothy’s Slippers and You

RubyRedSlippersWizardOfOz

Last Thursday and Friday, a diving team swept a flooded mine in Grand Rapids, Minnesota for a missing pair of the ruby-red shoes Judy Garland’s Dorothy wore in “The Wizard Of Oz”. Oz-heads know there were at least four to twenty (?) pairs of the shiny shoes used during the actual filming of WOO; One was stolen from a private collection in 2005 and there have since been rumors they were chucked into this old mine now filled with water in Grand Rapids; Minnesota not Michigan.

DiversSearchForRubyOzSlippersWednesday would have been Garland’s 93rd birthday; She was born in Grand Rapids and the dive itself was part of an annual event thrown by the Judy Garland Museum called The Wizard Of Oz Festival. Footage from the scuba mission (which did not yield the slippers) will be used in an upcoming documentary titled “The Slippers”. If you were there you have the chance to be in the final film.

Via Instagram.com/judygarlandmuseum
Via Instagram.com/judygarlandmuseum

The museum puts on a surprising amount of family-friendly “Oz” and Garland-history events; They’re also asking you, dear readers and red-slipper aficionados, to keep an eye out for these missing iconic heels.

The Brockton Shoe Museum

BrocktonTheShoeCity

Popdiatry would like to thank Carl Landerholm, president of the Brockton Historical Society for giving us an exclusive tour of the Brockton Shoe Museum on the last day of 2014.

A cobbler's workbench and tool set as seen at the Brockton Shoe Museum
A cobbler’s workbench and tool set as seen at the Brockton Shoe Museum

The museum- located 45 minutes south of Boston in Brockton Massachusetts– contains exhibits that trace the history of American shoe manufacturing with machines, products and ephemera from pre-revolution ’til Y2K. With permission, I’m sharing a few pictures. 

Behold the Krippendorh Kalculator as seen at the Brockton Shoe Museum
Behold the Krippendorh Kalculator as seen at the Brockton Shoe Museum

The machine above, a Krippendorf Kalculator, was used to maximize leather surface cutting as in the manner shown below by enabling super precise measurements per piece.

BHS_LeatherPattern

The Brockton Shoe Museum is currently open twice a month (every other Sunday) or by special appointment. 
The Brockton Historical Society,Inc.
216 North Pearl Street (Rte. 27)
Brockton, MA 02041
(Exit 18B off Route 24)

508-583-1039

 Encased in glass, pardon the reflection- 

Brockton Shoe Museum: Shoes worn by former US presidents George Bush and Gerald Ford
Brockton Shoe Museum: Shoes worn by former US presidents George Bush and Gerald Ford

Among other notable donations, they have footwear displayed from four US presidents as well as ones worn by boxers Rocky Marciano and  Primo Carnera.

Brockton Shoe Museum: Sneakers worn by former US presidents Bill Clinton and Jimmy Carter
Brockton Shoe Museum: Sneakers worn by former US presidents Bill Clinton and Jimmy Carter

Boxing shoe worn by champion fighter Rocky Marciano
Boxing shoe worn by champion fighter Rocky Marciano